Carnival!

So the country is shut down, and the people are in the streets. It's Carnival - the holiday that many Trini's live for all year. Starting on Thursday, we have been joining in - in school, in Port of Spain and in St. Augustine (mostly vicariously as the party sounds go through the night)

David and Patrick's school started the festivities on Thursday with an all day Carnival celebration, including a pan (steel drum) competition and "Parade of the Bands." The boys joined right in: competing in the pan competion and marching as part of the "Midnight Robbers", one of the traditonal Carnival band themes. Their class took first place in the competition. Everyone has some experience playing the steel drums, and it was great to see how some kids really have the music in them - great energy, rhythm and community participation: even the parents and teachers have a band that joins in the competition. The music is judged by a panel that takes the event very seriously, and the kids are supported by a professional rhythm session.

The parade of bands is barely controlled chaos: each grade and class had selected a theme which their costumes and "routine" were built around. The traditional themes include the Dahmeraine (American whores - and this at the Catholic school!), Sailors on Shore Leave in Port of Spain, Those Who Came (tracing the arrival of the Spanairds, Africans, Chinese and Indians), Healthy Living (fruits, vegetables, exerise/athletes, and a satirical competition between the bush doctor and modern medicine - which the nuns found hilarious). After their individual parade around the "car park", all groups join in a melee of dancing to the latest soca hit (Hands in the Air! Hands in the Air!) blasted from a huge wall of speakers.

On Saturday, we made our way into Port of Spain for the "kiddie Carnival" where the kids get to dress up and parade in "mas bands" just like the adults. It was a long, but fun day. Throughout the day it rained on us, and with no shelter to speak of we got soaked, dried out in the heat and got soaked again. The costumes were phenomenal, and clearly a lot of time and energy goes into it. Each band is accompanied by a HUGE sound truck blaring out the theme music for the competition (again, Hands in the Air!). Tim was happy to see many environmental themed bands - everything from "Treasures from the Sea" to alternative energy. After a long day of viewing, we ventured out into the heart of Port of Spain, winding our way to the best Chinese restuarant in town - which turned out to be a very fancy place, with us looking like drowned cats! But, since we were the only ones in the place (which was housed in a beautiful old Victorian house) the staff was very accomodating, and didnt even seat us by the kitchen.

After dinner we walked back to the national steel pan finals on the Queen's Savannah: loud, raucous, and crowded. We didnt stay for the whole competition, which like all of Carnival starts late and goes until dawn, but we did get to see the bands roll up the narrow streets in succession as they took their place on the stage, pushed by the players themselves in full costume.

We drove out through the old section of Port of Spain, leaving just as the streets were really starting to fill with Carnival celebrants.

rs.