Monday, April 20, 2009

Back to the Mountains











Last week's adventure to Nariva Swamp was matched yesterday by a long hike through Brasso Secco - deep in the interior of the Northern Range. We walked with Carl "Wang" Fitzjames, who grew up in the forests, went to the states and worked as a nuclear welder (a whole other story), met his wife and came back to the mountains he loves. Like the best of guides, he knows the animals, plants and land intimately and shared tremendous insights, passion and knowledge: like which of the melastoma family will give you hives on contact (which David of course tested in the field) and which you can use for toilet paper in a crunch - same family of plant with very different implications for your time in the forest!








The hike was hot, but filled with butterflies - huge blue Emperor Morphos, Owl butterflies (who's coloration and wing spot looked just like a horned owl), a malachite green colored one appropriately named the Malachite butterfly, Postman (bearing the British Post colors of red and black) and even a butterfly that Carl had never seen before. We saw several types of Trogons - deep forest birds - and many parrots before reaching our turn around point at Double Rivers Falls. A long lunch included a dip below the waterfall, and hunting for freshwater crayfish in the clear pools. When we finally made it back to Carl's house (8 hours later), his wife had made a local favorite of fish, rice and lentils which Tim and Barb enjoyed while the boys played hide and seek with Carl's kids (7 and 4) and the local lizards. On the way home, we stopped at the Asa Wright Nature Center for cold drinks, ice cream, veranda based bird watching - and a special visit from an agouti.








When we got down out of the mountains, we caught the tailend of the last of the ambassadors from the Summit of the America's leaving (and stopping traffic in the process).

Thursday, April 16, 2009

A Morning with Monkeys







The reality of leaving in a little more than two weeks has taken hold. So now we are working down the "to do" and "places to see" lists: we spent this morning with monkeys. Nariva Swamp is the largest wetland system in Trinidad, covering over 6500 hectares (about 15,000 acres). It is a Ramsar designated site, and home to a wide range of critters including the green anaconda (growing up to25 feet, and the star of the famous "Wild Kingdom" episode in which Jim was violently thrown around the stream while wrestling the anaconda), West Indian manatee, white faced capuchin monkeys and red howler monkeys. Plus a bunch of birds, porcupines, possums, tree boas...... We were led around Bush Bush island by an aptly nicknamed ranger from the Forestry Department, "Shortman", after a quick boat ride through the mangroves and marshes. Almost immediately, we came across a "troop" of white faced capuchin monkeys out for their breakfast browse. It made getting up at the crack of dawn worth it - especially for the kids. In no time, we were trying to match the names given by research scientists to the individuals we were seeing - Ophelia, Porkchop, Big Red (the alpha male of course) - and David was trying his best to speak directly to them, in what he was sure was fluent monkey. Beautiful forest, beautiful creatures, beautiful moment. At the same time, a troop of the resident red howler monkeys came in, and so within the space of 20 yards in the jungle we could watch two species: great fun. The beautiful trees, butterflies, porcupines, tree boas, savannah hawks, ant shrikes, belted and green kingfishers, herons, blue macaws, and a visit to the "Bush Bush Hilton" were just the little extras to round out the morning.

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Political Commentary - Trini Style




If you think the financial wizards behind the banking crisis are getting off too easily - you'll love this perspective. By the way - RBTT is "Royal Bank of Trinidad and Tobago".

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Good Friday




Somehow, we lost March on this blog - even though(or perhaps because) the month was full of trips and visits: Nick Reale blitzed both Trinidad and Tobago - surfing, climbing the highest peak, beaching it at Maracas - all much to the delight of his cousins. Dawn and Maryellen returned with Peter and Pesche for a week on Tobago: will try to catch up with details and more pix later.




Good Friday found us (with Catherine's girl friends from Hopewell along) hiking the forests along the Rio Secco, swimming in a beautiful waterfall pool and the kids joining the Trini kids in climbing up the waterfall for a death defying leap into the pool below - all survived, with Catherine leading the way. That night we went to the beach at Matura, and witnessed a wonderful spectacle of a leatherback turtle laying her eggs. Truly tremendous. And she did it surrounded by 50 people (sort of like giving birth in a NYC subway station). The naturalists assured us that once the laying process began, she was oblivious to our presence. The turtle was probably 700-800 pounds, and deposited around 80-120 eggs before she left the beach, only to return several more times before the season ends to do it again. The glow of witnessing this event was somewhat diminished as we walked off the beach, and passed the body of another turtle who had drowned several days earlier in a fisherman's net just offshore the nesting beach: after millions of years of existence, still very imperiled.